Wheel-Size.com - Entries for the category DIY Wheel Care

How To Clean Wheels And Tires

info@wheel-size.com (admin) — Wed, 21 Feb 2018 10:37:58 +0000

Below are some tips for keeping your wheels clean and in good condition:

Cleaning your wheels is important, especially for polished, glossy, or chrome finishes. If not properly cleaned, heat from the sun or your vehicle's brakes can eventually bake contaminants into the finish on your wheels, making it difficult or impossible to clean them.
Treat your wheels as you would treat your vehicle's paint. Clean one wheel at a time, using a mild soap with water and a soft sponge or cloth to gently scrub away dirt and brake dust. Rinse immediately with clean water and dry with a soft cloth to avoid dried soap or water spots. If desired, apply a wax to to help repel water and contaminants. We carry or can order wheel cleaner and wax for your wheels.
Never use chemicals cleaners, degreasers, or abrasives to clean your wheels; they will only damage the finish.
Avoid automatic car-washes; the finish on your wheels could be damaged by rough brushes, metal guide rails, or pressure washing.

How to wash your wheels and tires with a Wheel Cleaner detailing product:

Spray on the cleaner of your choice and let it dwell on the metal wheels and rubber tires. Check the cleaner instructions to see how long the manufacturer recommends the cleaner sit on the wheel surface.
After the cleaner dwells, use your cleaning brushes to scrub the surface of the wheel and tire.
Your brushes will work better when they're wet. Wet your brushes in a bucket of water and auto shampoo.
Start with the inside of the wheel: scrub the inner barrel of the wheel, the wheel hub and brake caliper first before moving to the spokes and outer surfaces.
Brush the inside of the wheel well too.
Use a nylon brush to scrub the rubber tire.
After scrubbing with your brushes, rinse the wheel and wheel well with a pressure washer and clean water.
Dry with an air dryer for a spotless finish.
Coat your wheels with a sealant or nano coating [optional].
Finish your tires with a rubber dressing.

How to change a tire

info@wheel-size.com (admin) — Wed, 21 Feb 2018 10:37:58 +0000

Secure the vehicle so that it won't roll; and roll the spare tire to the scene of the action.
Never change a tire on an incline or hill; always seek a flat surface, even if it means driving on a flat tire. Use bricks, wooden wedges, or metal wheel chocks to block the wheels at the opposite end of the car from the end that is to be raised.
Pry off the wheel cover.
You can use a screwdriver to pry the wheel cover off. Just insert the point of the tool where the edge of the cover meets the wheel, and apply a little leverage. The cap should pop off. You may have to do this in a couple of places, as if you were prying the lid off a can of paint.
Loosen the lug nuts.
You might know this as breaking the lug nuts. Whatever you call it, find the end of the wrench that fits the lug nuts on your vehicle, and fit it onto the first nut. Apply all your weight to the bar on the left. This starts turning the nut counterclockwise, which loosens it. Don't remove the lug nuts completely; just get them loose enough to remove by hand after you jack up the vehicle. A hollow pipe and a cross-shaft wrench can loosen the tightest lug nuts.
If you have alloy wheels that are held on by lug nuts with delicate finishes, the delicate aluminum or chrome-plated lug nuts need careful handling. They should never be loosened or replaced with power tools that can scratch the delicate finish.
Jack up the vehicle about 6 inches off the ground.
Place the jack securely under the edge of the car. Proper locations may vary among vehicle models, so consult the owner's manual for the right places to put the jack.
If you have a scissor jack (image a), insert the rod or wrench over the knob, and then crank. If you have a hydraulic jack (image b), place the handle into the appropriate location and pump up and down. Use nice, even strokes, taking the jack handle from its lowest point to its highest point on each stroke to cut down on the labor involved.
Remove the flat tire.
Take the lug nuts completely off by hand and put them in a safe place — inside the wheel cover or hub cap works well. Grasp the flat tire with both hands and pull it straight toward you. As you pull the flat off, it should slide along the bolts until it clears the end of the bolts and you find yourself supporting its full weight. Roll the flat along the ground to the rear of the vehicle to get it out of the way.
Lift the spare onto the lug bolts.
Because tires are heavy, you may have a little trouble lifting the spare into place — especially if you're not accustomed to lifting heavy things.
Replace the lug nuts and tighten them by hand.
Give each lug nut a jolt with the wrench to get it firmly into place, but wait until the car is on the ground before you really try to tighten the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle and tighten the lugnuts.
After the vehicle is resting on the ground, use the lug wrench to tighten the lug nuts as much as you can.
Replace the wheel cover or hubcap.
If your car has wheel covers with a delicate finish, the owner's manual should provide instructions for replacing it. If your car has hubcaps, place the hubcap against the wheel and whack it into place with the heel of your hand. Cushion your hand with a soft rag first so that you won't hurt it. And don't hit the hubcap with a wrench or hammer — you'll dent it.
Because the location and type of spare tire differs from one vehicle to the next, if you aren't familiar with your vehicle it's a good idea to check out the spare (and the jack and lug wrench) before trouble occurs. While you're at it, make sure the spare has enough air in it and continue to check that periodically.

How to read sidewall tire numbers and markings

info@wheel-size.com (admin) — Wed, 21 Feb 2018 10:37:58 +0000

Tire Size Markings

FEATURED BLOCK

The tire size shown above is P185/60R14. The 185 represents its section width. The number "60" indicates the tire’s aspect ratio. The last number, "14" indicates wheel diameter.

Tire / Section Width
The tire numbers in the above example tell us that the tire is 185 millimeters wide. The first number in this series refers to the tire's section width, or distance from sidewall edge to sidewall edge (in millimeters) when measured up and over the tire's tread. Generally speaking, the larger this number is, the wider the tire will be.
Aspect Ratio
Aspect Ratio is the ratio of the sidewall height to the section width. The sidewall height of the example tire above is 60% of its section width.This number can be very indicative of a tire's purpose. Lower numbers, like 55 or less, mean a short sidewall for improved steering response and better overall handling.
(R) Internal Construction
The "R" refers to radial construction, which has been the industry standard in passenger-car tires for more than 20 years. Prior to radial tires, most cars came with bias-ply tires, which had a crude construction that made for poor handling. Bias-ply tires (which use a "B" for their description) are still used for certain truck applications.
Rim or Wheel Diameter
Wheel Diameter specifies the size, in inches, of the wheel that a tire fits. The example tire will only fit a 14-inch wheel
Pay particular attention to this number if you plan on upgrading your wheel size. If your wheel diameter changes, you'll have to purchase a new set of tires that matches this new diameter.

Other Tire Markings

(82) Load Index
A tire's load index is a measurement of how much weight each tire is designed to support. The larger the number, the higher the load capacity. This is one of the most important numbers on your tire. To find out what "82" means, it must be looked up on a Load-Carrying Capacity Per Tire chart. Remember that this is per tire, which means you have to multiply by four to get the total capacity for a complete set of tires. If the vehicle has its original tires, you can just refer to the doorjamb, which lists the maximum cargo capacity with passengers.
Some vehicles are equipped with "XL" tires. No, it doesn't mean that they're extra large, but it does mean that they are extra-load tires. The load index on these tires is much higher than a standard-load tire — which is why it is important to replace an XL tire with another XL tire.
Remember "P-metric" and "Euro-metric sizing"? Their difference in load rating can lead to confusion and potential trouble. For a given size, P-metric tires will have a load index that is one or two points lower than corresponding Euro-metric tires. So if your car came with Euro-metric tires, don't replace them with P-metric tires. You can, however, replace P-metric tires with equivalent-size Euro-metric ones because you gain load capacity that way.
Why is this important? Generally speaking, you don't want your replacement tires to have a lower load index number than the originals (as indicated by the driver's doorjamb or the owner's manual), particularly with high-capacity vehicles that ride on smallish tires, such as minivans.
Also, and contrary to popular perception, optional large-diameter wheels with lower-profile tires tend to have less load-carrying capacity because they contain less air. And it is the volume of air inside the tire, not the rubber itself or the wheel material that shoulders the load. The load index is especially important when shopping for a tire online, since many retailers do not specify whether a tire is P-metric or not.
(H) Speed Rating
The speed rating is a measurement of the speed at which the tire is designed to run for extended periods. An "H" speed rating signifies that this tire can be run safely at speeds of up to 130 mph for extended periods. Will it explode if it goes to 140? No, not immediately. But it might if it is run at that speed for an extended time.
Here is a complete list of the various tire speed ratings, and their associated letters:
- S 112 mph
- T 118 mph
- U 124 mph
- H 130 mph
- V 149 mph
- *Z Over 149 mph
- *W 168 mph
- *Y 186 mph
- *(Y) Over 186 mph
- *The "Z" rating used to be the highest rating for tires having a maximum speed capability greater than 149 mph, but as tire technology improved, it is was ultimately split into the "W" and "Y" rating. A "ZR" may sometimes appear in the size designation, as a sort of nod to the prior rating, but it will also be used in conjunction with a W or a Y.
DOT Code
The DOT code is used by the Department of Transportation (DOT) to track tire production for recall purposes. If a tire proves to be defective, this number helps keep track of where these tires ended up so that buyers can be notified of the problem. At the end of the DOT code you'll find a four-digit number. This is the manufacturing date of the tire. The first two digits stand for the week; the other two are the year. For example, if your tire had "1610" listed, it was manufactured on the 16th week of 2010.
If you come across a three-digit number, you have a tire that was manufactured before 2000. A DOT tire code of "127" indicates the tire was made on the 12th week of the seventh year of the decade. But it's difficult to know whether that was 1997 or even 1987. According to tirerack.com, some tires produced in the 1990s may have a small triangle following the DOT number to identify the decade. But any tire that has a three-digit code is history. Tire experts recommend that tires that are six or more years old be replaced, regardless of tread depth.
Sometimes the DOT number will be located on the inside of the tire. In this case, you can either jack up the car to inspect it, or check with your local mechanic or tire shop. You should also make a habit of checking the manufacturing date on your spare tire as well.
Maximum Air Pressure
This number refers to the maximum amount of air you can put in a tire before you harm it. It is not the recommended tire pressure; that number can be found in your owner's manual and on the doorjamb.
Traction Rating
A traction rating can also be found on the sidewall of all modern tires. It can be represented as AA, A, B or C. This is a rating of a tire's traction when tested for straight-line braking on a wet surface. For this rating, AA signifies the best traction performance and C indicates the worst.
Temperature Rating
The temperature rating refers to the ability of the tire to withstand heat under high speeds. The ratings, from best to worst, are: A, B and C.
Treadwear Rating
Finally, you might find the word "TREADWEAR" on the sidewall followed by a number like 120 or 180. This is a rating of the tread's durability, as tested against an industry standard. The reference number is 100, so a tire with a treadwear rating of 200 has an 80 percent longer predicted tread life, while a rating of 80 means a predicted tread life only 80 percent as long as the industry standard.

In addition to all of the above, here is a comprehensive list of other markings you can find on your sidewall.

"Star": Original tyres for BMW
A/S: All-season tyre
A/T: All-terrain tyre
B: Bias construction, typically for motorcycles.
C: Commercial / passenger car tyre
BSW: Black SideWall
C: Commercial; tyres for light trucks. Similar to LT (below)
E4: Tyre approved according to ECE-regulations. See The E Mark below.
EL: Extra Load; tyre for vehicles of heavier standard weights
FR: Flange Rib - the area above the bead of the tyre that acts as a protection for the outer lip of your alloy wheel against light contact with kerbs etc.
H/T: Highway/terrain tyre. For SUVs and 4x4s - less aggressive than full off road tyres - design for some use on-road
LT: Light Truck tyres.
M0: Original tyres for Mercedes-Benz
M+S, or M&S: Mud and Snow - see car tyre types
Made in ...: Country of production
MFS: Max Flange Shield - a rubber ring around the tyre designed to help prevent damaging the wheel flange when close to a kerb
M/T: Mud/terrain tyre. Similar to A/T
N(number): Original tyres for Porsche.
OWL: Outline White Lettering
P: Commercial / passenger car tyre
RB/RBL: Raised Black Lettering
RF: Reinforced tyres
RIB: A rubber ring around the tyre designed to help prevent damaging the wheel flange when close to a kerb. Same as MFS
RW/RWL: Raised White Lettering
SFI, or Inner: Side Facing Inwards; inside of asymmetric tyres.
SFO, or Outer: Side Facing Outwards; outside of asymmetric tyres.
SL: Standard Load; tyre for normal usage and loads
SUV: SUV / 4x4 tyre
TL: Tubeless
TT: Tube-type, tyre must be used with an inner-tube
TWI: Tread Wear Indicator.
WSW: White SideWall
XL: eXtra Load; tyre for vehicles of heavier standard weights. Same as EL
Arrows: Denotes rotation direction for directional tread.

In additions (yes, there's more), these are what you'll find on run-flat tyres:

DSST: Dunlop Self Supporting Technology
EMT: Goodyear Extended Mobility Tyre
RFT: Bridgestone Run Flat Tyre
ROF: Run On Flat
RSC: Runflat System Component
SSR: Continental Self Supporting Runflat
ZP: Michelin Zero Pressure